Monday, April 25, 2011

The idli ratio

Idli
Idli - Steamed rice cakes - Gluten free, guilt free

Every two weeks my son makes it a point to remind me that I haven't made idlis in a long time. A long time, being just ten to 15 days. I am not sure why people like idli so much. I myself am not too fond of it. I always loved dosas. These days however, I prefer idlis as they are steamed and do not call for a teaspoon of oil around the periphery like dosas, and I have become conscious that the teaspoons per dosa add up to quite a bit, especially when there is chutney to go with them. My son on the other hand is a thin boy and can afford to eat dosas to his heart's content without them making handles around his waist, but ironically he seems to prefer idlis. He loves to dunk the soft, fluffy pieces of idli in coconut chutney, let it take all the goodness of the coconut juice. It is quite a sight to see him enjoying a mouthful as he lets his tastebuds take over!

When I wrote the traditional Tamilian idli post for Dawn, the comment section became a ground of discussion as people wised others about types of idlis and some even tried pulling in a bit of politics into the food court. Thankfully idlis ruled and the divisions were stymied as both the countries have some ardent foodies who poured in their love for idlis. It however firmly established what I had always believed - that the way to people's heart is only food! How else does one explain the indignant man who mentioned that my ratio of 3:1 [rice:dal] was totally wrong and that his wife, a wonderful cook made the best idlis by following the ratio of 2:1! I was intrigued. I knew my method was correct. After-all it had been established by generations of Mums and Grand mums who lovingly ground 'ollocks' [old Indian system of measuring] of rice and dal in their 'aattukallus' [Manual grinding stones used in India].

My pati would have been flabbergasted at the impudence of the man who suggested a different ratio. But well, times have moved. My pati's grand-daughter [that's me], though initially distraught got back her cool [as I think my pati would have]! I decided to try the new ratio with the ardent faith of a skeptic!

Since idlis are made ever so often in the TT household the chance came by soon. I first measured 2.5 cups of puzhangal arisi [par boiled rice], rinsed it and soaked. I know, I know it was supposed to be 2 but I could not resist adding the extra half. The skeptic reigned and that is not my fault! When I reached for the ulund [split black gram lentil], I was disappointed to find that the quantity had reduced and measured only 1/2 a cup. Too lazy to go to the shop late in the night, I decided to substitute the other 1/2 cup with payatham paruppu [split mung bean lentil]. Two changes spelled only lesser faith in the ratio set by the man who commented.

Next morning the grinding ritual began and as I scraped down the remnants of the batter from the stone I wondered whether the batter would rise as much as the regular one. A teeny weeny bit of my heart wished it wouldn't. Then I could blame the commentator! To my surprise, I saw that indeed the batter rose. I placed the undisturbed batter in the refrigerator.

This morning I woke up, thawed the batter for an hour and poured ladlefuls into idli depressions, steamed them on high for five minutes and on low for ten minutes, like I usually do. While the steamer cooled I made the cooconut chutney and tomato chutney to go with the idlis. I would have settled for molagaipodi some other time but this time I made chutneys just to hide any faults the new ratio might create. My son, the taster can find out the slightest faults! The steamer cooled, the plates were laid out. They looked as good as they usually did as they cooled their heels. I took out the small shiny idli removing spoon my daughter had gifted me last year, pushed the spoon round the edges and out plopped the idlis, looking like how they are normally described. They were indeed soft, fluffy, pillowy clouds of white. The mung beans made no difference what-so-ever to the taste, sight or texture. The new ratio did not make the idlis any worse. Ok! Stop thinking I am a prude! I accept they were as good as my pati's idli!

Sadly, I have to concede that the commentator was right in writing in that his wife was a wonderful cook! But happily for me, my ratio is still as good. Besides I decided that the ratio must have been given to his wife by her pati. That made me happy and peaceful! It is not about the recipe being right or wrong. It is just a matter of preference! Idlis with 2:1 ratio taste as good as idlis with 3:1 ratio! I am assuming that the half cup extra did not make much difference. What is your ratio?

Here is the final recipe for the idlis with mung beans!

Idli with chutney



Dish: Idli again (Idli I and the Dawn Idlis can be found by clicking the respective links)
Yield: 30-35 idlis
Allergy information: Gluten free, lactose free, nut free, soy free, vegan.

Ingredients:
Par-boiled rice (Ukda chaawal) - 2.5 cups
Dehusked, black gram lentil (Urad dal) - 1/2 cup
Dehusked, green gram lentils or mung bean (Moong dal) - 1/2 cup
Fenugreek seeds (Methi dana) - 1 tsp.

Method:
Pick, clean and rinse the rice in several changes of water till water runs clear. Pour water, twice to the amount of rice and let it soak.

Pick, clean the lentils and fenugreek seeds. Rinse as before and soak the three together in sufficient amount of water (twice the quantity of lentils).

The ingredients should be soaked for at least six to eight hours till they plump up well.

After soaking, drain the liquid and grind the lentils in fresh water. Use water just enough to get a fluffy, light batter. Do not add too much water. When the batter becomes as light as whipped cream, remove from the grinder and pour into a big vessel. Should take about 20 minutes.

Drain the liquid from the rice and grind to a soft, slightly grainy consistency. This will take time, about 3o minutes. The water needed to grind rice will be lesser than that needed for lentils. Do not make a runny batter.

Pour the rice batter along with the lentils. Add salt to taste. A teaspoon of til oil and beat the batter well.

The vessel used should be about two and a half times the quantity of batter as it will rise quite high.

Cover the vessel and let the batter ferment for about seven to nine hours, depending on how sour you like your idlis.

After the fermentation you can make the idlis immediately or refrigerate for later use. It will remain good for about four or five days in Tropical conditions.

When ready to use:

Grease idli moulds or cups and pour ladlefuls of batter into them. Do not mix the batter for best results. You have done all that fermentation for the wild yeast to take over. Mixing will beat the bubbles.

Using a steamer or a cooker, steam the cups/moulds for five minutes on high heat and later ten minutes on low.

Let it cool naturally. Open and remove the cups. Let the steamed rice cakes cool for about five to ten minutes before demoulding with a sharp spoon.

Serve with coconut chutney, molagaipodi (spicy powder to go with the idlis), and tomato chutney [recipe follows].

Idli with chutney
Idli with tomato chutney

Dish: Tomato chutney or Thakkali thogayal
Yield: 1 bowl

Ingredients:
Onion - 1/2 cup, diced big
Tomatoes - 1 cup, diced big
Pigeon peas (Tuvar dal) - 1 tbsp.
Bengal gram lentils (Chana dal) - 1 tbsp.
Dried red chillies - 2
Curry leaves - 1 sprig
Salt to taste
Oil - 1 tsp.

Method:

Warm and a pan and heat oil.

Add the two lentils and roast till pink. Set aside.

Now roast the dried red chillies till dark and set aside.

Roast curry leaves till crisp but green. Set aside.

Roast the onions till brown. Remove.

Roast tomatoes with a touch of salt for about ten minutes till wilted.

Grind the above with salt to taste to a grainy consistency or smooth if you like.

Taste, adjust salt, garnish with curry leaves and serve with idli or dosa.

Idli with chutney
Idli with chutneys

17 comments:

  1. What ever the ratio your idles look soft spongy and absolutely delicious.

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  2. I think different communities have different ways of making idli...

    In tamilian or any south Indian brahmin households its always 2:1, infact they didnt even use paraboiled rice, it was always the regular rice....later on shifted to idly rava which became available.

    My ratio is always 2:1, but it never comes out as good as my mother or grand mother makes in India.

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  3. I think in most south indian brahmin households the ratio is 2:1, but again I may be wrong. But I feel these ratios, spices and other subtle differences is unique to each community, hence the variety, diversity and taste to Indian cuisine, they different from family to family within a community too.

    In my house its always been 2:1, in fact it was always regular rice , not even paraboiled rice. When idly rava became available, we switched to that.

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  4. The ratios definitely matters harini, it also depends on the quality of urad as well as rice..and ofcourse every family has their own..I use Idli rice for idlis and it comes out super soft,its like mallige idli..as soft as cotton...
    I had idli feast last week end and recently even I started making it very often as she started loving Idlis...n I m like you,prefers dosas over Idlis...sorry for such a long comment..:)one more thing,r u going for vicky's show?

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  5. Even i make idlis with 2:1 ratio and have tried it with 3:2 too... I like more daal in it...
    I have never tried adding beaten rice flakes , will try it next time...your pictures make me want to soak the rice and daal right now :)

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  6. Wow, what a beautiful, soft and delicious looking idlis...feel like having some noe..YUM!

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  7. Oh gosh!!! I had made idlies for breakfast today and your photographs are making me crave for more. Loved the chutneys too!!! Great post Harini :)

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  8. Thanks all for your feedback. I just realized that most people use the 2:1 ratio. I guess it depends on how sour and how soft they turn out!

    Pratibha, I don't plan to attend the show as it is too far off for me to travel back and forth.

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  9. I don't know who is a Tamilian Brahmin and who is not but until 5 years ago, my ratio was 2:1. It was what Venkatraman-mami used and so we did, too. My Mom made idlis using this ratio in Bombay and in Nairobi. I made idlis with that ratio in Chicagoland. It doesn't work in Colorado. You have to use 3:1 or even 4:1.

    Sala had asked some chefs about secrets to spongy idlis and they said altitude played no role - which makes sense as Nairobi is also about a mile high and 2:1 worked like a charm there. Maybe humidity does? We have single digit humidity for most of the year. Warmth is not an issue as that is managed.

    I wish I didn't have to care about ratio. I just want to reach out for those idlis!

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  10. My ratio is 3:1. Thanks for the moong dal idea to make up for the urad dal. It happens to me sometimes and I adjust the rice accordingly.

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  11. Manisha, thanks for sharing your experience. It seems to clear up a lot of things for me. The ldlis in Mumbai (where humidity is high) is different than the ones in Bangalore despite the fact that we use the same ratio and method! Probably climate does make a difference apart from the quality of the ingredients.
    Jayasree hails from the same place as me so probably we tend to use the same ratio. It makes a lot of sense!

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  12. wow, that is brave of you to try new ratio. Anyways, as surprising it may be, I have never ground batter for Idli or Dosa at home (after marriage). Mom always used to do, but I don't know the ratio. These look good enough to me. I am just afraid of the long process, plus, I don't have a wet grinder, so scared of grinding it in my usual blender and losing blender to idli batter (due to how long it needs to be ground and I am not sure if my blender can run for that long without breaks).

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  13. This is news to me. The 3:1 ratio is whats working for me,thgh I have heard about the 2:1 and also the 4:1 ratios. But moong dal in the regular idli mix is very new to me. Brave Girl you r H to try out the ratio and also with a difference!

    BTW, I too prefer dosas over idlis. I run away idlis as and when possible.

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  14. You know I don't like idlis.. perhaps that was coz my mom made awful ones.. really! She is an awesome cook and made awesome dosa batter but idlis not..

    but I am tempted to try these.. i don't know why.. But it is compelling!

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  15. Thank you for clarifying the ratio issue.Even I make 3:1 ratio idlis.Now your post has cleared the air.Thanks.

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  16. First time here..u hv a wonderful space with mouthwatering recipes n pics...
    Visit mine as time permits...
    And this looks so yummy n filling..love idlis to the heart core..craving for some of ur soft idlis now...Following uuuuuuuuuuu.....
    Sanyukta
    http://creativesanyukta.blogspot.com/

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  17. Those idlis look gorgeous.. I'm a staunch 2:1 idli-maker and they come out soft and spongy for me all the time :) I think its also in the grinding. The first time I made idlis, I made the mistake of grinding the rice too fine and the idlis turned out like rocks :P

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